Frequently Asked Questions

Technical Advice

Q.What is the best way to warm up a cold engine in a modern car?

Manufacturers in general do not recommend any prolonged idling as a means to warm the engine up. A cold engine uses more fuel than a warm engine. It is not necessary to warm up a cold engine by letting it idle. Once the engine idle speed has stabilised, which should occur within a few seconds of starting, select the correct gear and proceed to drive the vehicle. The engine will warm up faster while driving rather than idling.

Q.What does it mean if I have to keep topping up my radiator?

The cooling system in most modern day cars is a basically sealed system, which means that when filled with coolant it should not require topping up between services. These systems work by allowing the coolant to expand from the radiator into a small recovery bottle located in the engine bay. Then when the engine is turned off and the coolant cools and contracts, the radiator cap will allow the coolant to flow back into the radiator from the recovery bottle. This keeps the radiator full and able to operate efficiently. If you are constantly topping up the coolant, check for any external leaks. This is best done when the system is under pressure so it will have to be done while the coolant is hot. Be careful as you are dealing with a fluid that will cause severe scalding burns if it sprays on to you and never release the radiator cap of a hot engine during this process. The far safer alternative is to have your mechanic pressure test the system with a special pump that does not rely on the engine being hot. Leaks from hoses or joints, water pump, Welsh plugs and the radiator are possible causes, but also check the floor below the heater as any leak from the heater core will usually leave dampness on the floor below.

Q.My car makes a clicking noise when going around corners. What could this be?

This is a problem that occurs when the Constant Velocity joint, or as they are commonly known CV joints, are worn or faulty. CV joints are used on the drive shafts of front wheel drive vehicles. Their function is to transmit drive to the front wheels while they are moving up and down over bumps and turning from side to side with the steering. CV joints are located at each end of the drive shaft. The outer joint has to operate through a wider angle than the inner as the front wheels turn from left to right. This is the joint that will wear the most and when worn will emit a clicking noise when cornering or doing a U-turn. When the joint is excessively worn, the corners of the cages holding the internal components of the joints will touch and in turn makes the noise. This wear is often caused by a split or tear in the rubber boot that protects the joint. This allows dirt and moisture into the joint, which in turn causes the joint to quickly wear. Your best option is to have the vehicle assessed for a new or replacement joint or possibly a complete shaft. Don’t forget there is a drive shaft for each front wheel and both need to be checked.

Q.How dark can the tint on my car's windows be?

For quite some time South Australia has lived with a unique set of requirements for applied films or tints that differ from other states. This is why many vehicle owners have encountered registration problems when transferring a vehicle from interstate to South Australia. In 2010 the new year not only signalled the start of a new decade, but also brought in changes to window tinting regulations in SA. Introducing consistency between SA regulations and those interstate, the visible light transmission (VLT) of driver and passenger windows has now been reduced from 70 per cent, to 35 percent for SA motorists. The VLT for front windscreens will remain at 75 per cent for vehicles built after 1971 and 70 percent for older vehicles. Also remembering that no tint film can be applied to the front windscreen. To view the Transport SA fact sheet click here

Q.How can I prepare my vehicle for winter?

Battery Battery related breakdowns are the most common problems that motorists have during the cold months. Yet if you take a bit of time to care for your battery, most of these frustrating problems can be overcome. Don’t be fooled into thinking that ‘low maintenance’ or ‘maintenance free’ batteries don’t need any attention – they still need some care, even if it’s only a little. Top up your battery with distilled water regularly so the cells don’t dry out. And remember, don’t use tap water! Any corrosion, which looks like white or green fungus, around the terminals should be wiped away. If it’s too thick to be removed easily, raid the kitchen cupboard for some bicarbonate of soda. Make a paste of this by adding some water, then brush it onto the terminals and rinse off with hot water. The corrosion should then come off pretty easily. If not, it might be time to invest in a set of new terminals. Make sure you don’t do any of this work on your battery on the lawn or in your driveway. The acid will kill the lawn or leave white stains on the cement. Brakes Your brakes can be tested responsibly and within the law on a quiet, sealed road that’s free from oil and water. Apply the brakes fairly hard and take note if the car pulls to one side or if the brake pedal goes close to the floor. If you notice anything unusual, have it checked with a brake specialist immediately. Faulty brakes can be deadly! Tyres All tyres, including the spare, should be inflated to the correct pressure. Incorrectly inflated tyres limit your car’s braking efficiency and its overall handling. Under inflated tyres are dangerous. If you’re not sure of correct tyre pressure, look in the car owner’s manual for the manufacturer’s specifications. Make sure the tyres have plenty of tread – ideally, they should have a minimum of 3mm tread. Most tyres have wear bars that run across the bottom of the tyre grooves. When the tyres wear to this level, they need replacing. Windscreen Keep your windscreen clean during the cooler weather. Dirt on the windscreen can limit your visibility when driving towards a low sun. For maximum visibility, windows should be cleaned regularly with either a chamois or a sheet of newspaper with methylated spirits. Garage your car if possible Try to park your vehicle under cover at night and try to avoid parking your car on the lawn overnight as damp rising from the lawn condenses on engine and ignition parts leading to current leakage. Condensation forming on the underside of the bonnet can lead to rust development. Fogging up A fogged up windscreen is not only annoying, but also dangerous as it restricts the driver’s vision. However, there’s a quick and easy way to get rid of the fog – just turn on your demister and switch on the air-conditioning. Turning the temperature control to warm or even hot will clear the windscreen quickly. Service your car regularly Ensure your vehicle is running as it should by having it serviced professionally at regular intervals. The RAA recommends using an RAA Approved Repairer. Click here to locate an Approved Repairer in your local area.

Q.Automotive Acronyms, we explain some of the terms and abbreviations

Click here for chart

Buying a car

Q.What are my rights with respect to cooling off?

New protections for used car buyers - Cooling Off rights have come into effect from 29th November 2010. A two day "cool off " period will apply to used vehicle (and demonstrator) sales as of 29th November 2010. Potential used vehicle purchasers will have 2 clear business days to double think their buying decision. New rules also apply to deposit amounts and requirements for activating, or putting a cool off into action. Buyers will also have the option to waiver their cool off rights. Cooling off rights do not apply to new vehicles. Click here for more information.

Petrol, Oil & Gas

Q.What type of engine oil should I use?

Vehicle manufacturers spend a lot of time working with oil companies to develop oil that is best for their engine. They do this because the performance of the oil affects so many aspects of an engine. It determines how quickly the engine wears, it assists in the engine’s cooling and can affect fuel consumption and emissions. The vehicle owner’s handbook of your vehicle will specify a range of oils suitable for use in the vehicle. It will have a viscosity specification listed and it will read something like 20W-50. The range of the viscosity or 'thickness' of the oil allows for variations in the climate and conditions that the engine may have to operate within. To be sure that you have oil that will perform to the latest level of performance and quality, in a petrol engine, look for a SJ classification as well.

Q.If a car is designed to run on Premium Unleaded Petrol (PULP), is any harm done if normal unleaded fuel is used?

Whether harm is done varies from model to model and you should consult your vehicle owner’s manual for the individual limitations for your vehicle. However, generally most engine management systems used in late model cars have the ability to adjust the engine’s operating parameters to achieve the best compromise between optimum performance and still not allow the engine to be damaged. It does this by using sensors that relay information about temperature, speed, throttle position and gear selection back to onboard computers. If a lower octane fuel is used, the sensors may detect a fault and the onboard computer may adjust the engine performance to prevent engine damage. If Premium Unleaded fuel is unavailable, operating on regular unleaded fuel should be kept to a minimum. The vehicle should be driven carefully until Premium Unleaded fuel is added when available. Remember when you add ULP to PULP, the fuel’s octane rating is not instantly lowered to the ULP octane. There is a mixing effect so the octane rating is somewhere between ULP and PULP.

Q.How often must my LPG tank be checked?

LPG tanks are made of steel and have to be inspected and tested for damage and deterioration such as corrosion after ten years. If you have purchased the vehicle with the LPG system already fitted, then you should check when it next needs to be inspected and fitted. The cylinder will have an expiry date stamped on it. In most cases the tank has to be removed from the vehicle to be tested. Depending upon the location of the tank the labour cost to remove, test and refit the cylinder would normally be around $200 to $300. However, it is wise to shop around and get a quote before authorising the testing of the tank. The test determines the remaining life expectancy of the cylinder and related pressure control valves. Specialised technicians are required by law to carry out maintenance on LPG systems.

Vehicle Jacking Safety

Q.Important information regarding vehicle jacking

According to a recent coronial report the innocent looking car jack could be responsible for over half of the deaths caused by vehicle related products and 40% of all deaths caused by product failures. During the last 7 years twenty nine deaths in Australia were attributed to the failure or incorrect use of car jacks. Car jacks are made for one function only and that is to lift the car high enough to remove the wheel that has been punctured and replace it with a wheel that has an inflated tyre. They are not designed to be stable or strong enough to support a car while it is being worked on, nor are they designed to be used to support vehicle components such as transmissions while doing repairs. If you have to get under a car that has been jacked up, only do it with a safety stand supporting the vehicle’s weight. Most car jacks are designed specifically for the vehicle with dedicated jacking and connection points. It is also important that before you really need to use the jack that you look at the owner’s manual and how to use it correctly. Also make sure that it is actually there, not damaged or rusted and it is best to do that now while the car is in good condition not find out later on a rainy night. Obviously as an RAA member if you are ever in any doubt about the safety of your jack or cannot operate it properly then you simply ring road service on 131111 so that they can change the wheel for you. Equally jacks shouldn’t be used for trying to jack up other types of vehicles like trailers or caravans. To watch the latest Government initiated video warning about the hazards of vehicle jacking click here

For more information you can download a copy of the Vehicle Jack safety brochure

Caravans in particular pose some risk because they often don’t come with a jack as standard equipment and especially if it is an older van although more recently caravan chassis builders have been incorporating easily accessible brackets on the outside of the chassis for generic jacks like hydraulic Trail-A-Mate make a secure connection to the van and it is a good design that gets rid of the need to climb underneath the van and again you need to make sure you know how to use the jack on the van and practice before you head off on holidays.

Brake Systems and Maintenance

Q.What's stopping you?

Like tyres, brakes are integral to vehicle safety, but often overlooked. While maintaining them can be an expensive exercise, with potentially fatal consequences for not looking after your brakes it’s a case of better safe than sorry.

What's the differance?

First things first, let’s get the tech-talk out the way. There are two main types of brake systems – disc brakes and drum brakes. Disc brakes have a disc attached to the inside of the wheel which is gripped on either side by brake pads and squeezed by a brake caliper to slow the disc and the vehicle. Drum brakes are where curved brake shoes are expanded outward into a rotating drum that is attached to the wheel and the friction created slows the wheel. The friction caused in both systems creates very high temperatures, which negatively affect the brakes ability to slow the vehicle, so brake cooling is essential for good brake performance. Disc brakes are better at getting rid of this heat and therefore are used on all wheels where high performing brakes are needed, such as sports cars. All modern cars have disc brakes on the front wheels where the braking need is the greatest and most have disc brakes on the rear. However, some still have the less efficient drum brakes on the rear wheels.

Wear and tear

The more brakes are used the quicker they wear, so if you live in the hills and travel down to the city, expect your brakes to wear quicker than a country vehicle that clocks up its distance on long straight roads where the brakes are seldom used. The main cause of premature brake wear is high temperatures. Steep hills braking, constant city braking or towing of trailers and caravans all increase braking temperatures and reduce the life of brake pads. As a general rule typical brakes pads should last between 20,000 to 60,000 kilometres. Most of the time the brake pads wear at a quicker rate than the disc or drum that they are rubbing against. However as vehicle manufacturers have pursued better brake performance, increasingly it is the disc that suffers significant wear. Uneven disc or drum wear can induce symptoms such as a pulsing brake pedal, vibrations through the steering wheel and even the car veering to one direction when the brakes are applied. Sometime this can be cured with new brake pads and having the surfaces of the disc machined to make sure both side of the discs are parallel and to restore a smooth surface. However, be aware that this can only be done a couple of times before the disc become too thin and has to be replaced. It’s also important to be aware that brakes should never be allowed to wear to the extent that their metal bases dig into the disc. Besides being expensive to repair, this creates a different braking affect on each wheel causing instability in the vehicle that is dangerous and potentially fatal. Some vehicles have brake wear warning systems to avoid this where the driver is alerted via a warning on the dash or other that have a simple thin plate that touches the disc and vibrates, causing a noise that also gets their attention.

Counting the cost

When it comes to brake safety, the cost for a normal brake repair can be around $75 – $100 per wheel, but this cost can triple if you need to replace the discs rotors. Vehicle manufacturers spend a lot of time and money developing the optimum brake system for their cars so it best to use the same brake pads as they use. However there are circumstances where some brake component manufacturers do make better discs and pads than the manufacturers. Talk to RAA Technical for advice on what would be best for your car.

A little TLC

Brake systems use hydraulic brake fluid to take the pressure that you apply to the brake pedal, amplify it using a brake booster, and send it to the brakes. Brake fluid has to be changed as part of the preventative maintenance servicing of your car, so check your vehicle’s owner manual for the service interval and type of brake fluid to be used. Be careful though, as brake fluid degrades when overheated, contaminated or if it absorbs moisture from the air, so ensure you don’t leave the brake top-up container open for very long. This also applies to the bottle of brake fluid you may have in the shed.

High tech brakes

At the extreme technology end of brakes there are some manufacturers that offer ceramic brakes which are lighter and offer superior braking performance under extreme conditions – but they can add $19k to the cost of a vehicle. There are also some smart innovations that have been introduced, such as disc brake wiping systems. During heavy rain, water can get onto the disc and in the first split second affect brake performance. These systems sense the rain and automatically lightly apply the brakes intermittently. While the driver doesn’t feel it, the brakes are wiped dry ready for use. Other brake systems sense any sudden lift off of the accelerator pedal and interpret this as the beginning of an emergency braking situation. In an instant, they will pre-empt the driver by slightly applying the brakes ready for when the driver’s foot gets to the brake pedal and applies full braking pressure. Then there are hybrid vehicles that turn their electric motor into a generator to deliver load on the wheels via the transmission to slow the vehicle while at the same time generating power back into the battery. These need little or no normal brake assistance under light braking situations. When it comes to your cars brake system, the most important thing to remember is safety comes first. So of if you feel or hear anything out of the ordinary, have your car checked by an RAA Approved Repairer as soon as possible. If you have any questions about your brakes or brake components, contact RAA Technical Advisory on 8202 4689 or email techadvisory@raa.com.au

Q.Why does my steering wheel shake when I brake?

The most common cause of steering wheel shake when the brakes are applied is a condition called brake shudder. It occurs when the brake disc becomes unevenly worn. This causes the brake pads to contact the high spots of the brake discs and results in a vibration. This vibration in turn causes a brake shudder that is felt by the driver through the steering wheel. The remedy for this condition is normally to have the discs machined so that they have even surfaces again and the wheel bearing adjustment checked. The brake pads will also need replacing. Any vibration or shudder through the steering, without brakes applied, would normally be associated with wheel or tyre imbalance and is not necessarily a brake fault.

Tyres & Wheels

Q.How can I extend my tyre life?

CAR TYRES

One of the most important components and probably overlooked by most owners are the tyres fitted to your vehicle. Owners drive every day and the majority of owners never offer a second thought about their tyres until either a flat tyre or puncture occurs or when the vehicle is being serviced and getting a phone call from your serviceman seeking approval to fit new tyres as yours are well and truly worn past their legal limit. Tyre Selection

When purchasing new tyres, ensure you select the correct tyre for your car. Mixing different brand tyres on the same axle is not recommended due to varying construction styles. It can also be dangerous to mix tyres of different sizes or aspect ratios. Do not mix sizes or tyre types. Check the manufacturer’s tyre placard fitted to the vehicle at the door opening or glove box lid for the correct tyre size, speed rating and load capacity to suit your car. Any changes away from those listed on the placard may cause early wear or failure of your tyres. Any impact damage to tyres may cause internal damage to the tyre casing, rubbing or bumping over kerbs can cause damage not visible on the outside but may lead to premature failure rendering the tyre useless. Checking Tyre Pressures

Tyre pressures should be checked regularly, preferably each week when cold, using an accurate gauge. Do not forget the spare tyre and it is also a check to see that the wheel is still there as Holden Commodores were a target for thieves who would steal the wheel from the boot without leaving evidence of their entry and the first the owner knows of it is when they have a flat tyre and go to get the spare out. Many petrol stations now offer a fixed tyre gauge where drivers can set the desired pressure for their tyres and the pressures automatically adjust to the selected pressure. The RAA has found these units to be generally more accurate and reliable than the type that have the gauge at the end of the air hose. These units are prone to inaccuracies caused by the gauge being dropped, run over and contaminated with water. Heavy loads or towing puts an extra strain on your tyres. So if your vehicle is fully loaded with passengers and luggage, the general rule is to add 28kpa (4PSI or 4lbs). At high speed or 100km/h the rule is to add 28Kpa (4PSI) to your minimum pressure as stated on the tyre information placard. Don't inflate your tyres above 40 psi or 280 kPa. When the tyres get hot from driving, the pressure will increase even more. Checking Tyre Wear

For tyres to be legal they must have tread across the full tread area and have at least 1.6mm of tread. Most tyres are fitted with “Tread wear indicators” which are located in the tread groove and when the tyre wears these indicators are able to touch the road during normal operation, this is an indication of the tyre requiring replacement. Servicing

When tyres are fitted new, balancing is required to ensure the wheel and tyre combination is balanced and does not cause any vibrations through the vehicle. Make sure that you have your mechanic check for uneven tyre wear during servicing so that if any fault is developing it can be remedied before it costs you a tyre. Wheel alignment is just as important as wheel balancing and in many cases combined at the time of fitting new tyres. Any misalignment may cause the tyre to wear unevenly and cause steering problems. Temporary or Space Saver Tyres

Motorists should check their vehicle for the presence of a temporary or space saver spare tyre and familiarise themselves with the limitations of using a temporary spare. Temporary use spare tyres or space savers are specially constructed spare tyre and rim combinations provided by vehicle manufacturers as standard equipment in many vehicles. These spares are lighter and smaller than those which you normally see fitted to motor cars. Temporary use spare tyres are generally recognizable by their unusual design (yellow rim) and compact size. Temporary use spare tyres are not designed to travel long distances. If you are unsure of the condition of the space saver spare tyre, check it before driving the car. Use the temporary use spare tyre strictly in accordance with the vehicle manufacturer's instructions. Carefully observe the manufacturer's recommendations for any limits on speed, tyre pressure, load and safe travel distance. Note inflation pressure will not be the same for the temporary spare as the primary tyre. This information can be found either on a placard near the spare tyre or in the vehicle handbook. Repair or Replace?

It is recommended that repairs should be undertaken only by qualified tyre technicians, because sometimes tyres with apparently minor external damage have actually sustained unseen but serious internal damage.

Q.I have a constant noise from the front of the car and have been told it is tyre noise. Why are my tyres noisy?

When new tyres are fitted to a motor vehicle, the tyres are fitted and balanced according to the manufacturer's requirements. Once fitted to the vehicle, a wheel alignment should be carried out prior to the vehicle travelling on the new tyres. Tyres are the only contact a motor vehicle has between itself and the road surface. Manufacturers produce a range of tyres to be able to suit varying road conditions and expectations from vehicle owners. Noise or the absence of noise is only one consideration made at the time the tyre is produced. Things like adhesion through both wet and dry road conditions, cornering ability, braking or stopping ability, wear, balance and cost are all taken into consideration. This is in most cases why manufacturers produce a range of tyres with varying priorities, some are manufactured where performance is a high priority while others will have balance or quietness as their main priority.

Q.What are the best tyres for my car?

There is no one tyre that is more suitable than another for all the conditions that the tyre may encounter. It depends on various factors including the type of driving to be done, the price of the tyre, road surfaces that will be driven on and the personal choice or experience of the driver. Two identical vehicles with identical tyres could travel the same distances but record different tyre wear because of the cornering and braking that it is subjected to. For example, a tyre that does a lot of cornering will more often have greater tyre wear than a similar vehicle that is subject to less hard cornering or frequent braking. Also the wear can vary simply because of incorrect tyre pressures or the wheel alignment of the vehicle. And then there are factors such as the owner's driving style or technique and the roads travelled on which can also affect the rate of tyre wear. Our general experience is that Australian vehicle manufacturers spend considerable time matching their vehicles to the most suitable tyres, that are often also made in Australia, and these seem to cope well with the extreme loads that hot temperatures and high road speed can place on a tyre. Most cars have a Tyre Placard decal fitted to the vehicle, which has the manufacturer's recommended size and rating suitable for the vehicle. This placard is often located in the glovebox but may be in other areas such as the doors or door pillars. Check your vehicle’s owner manual for its location.

Q.What size mag (alloy) wheels can I legally fit to my car?

Your vehicle should have a tyre placard fitted. This is a sticker, which is usually inside the driver’s door or pillar area, that has on it the vehicle manufacturer’s specified tyre and rim sizes for the model. The same information is also often in the vehicle’s handbook. You may increase or decrease the displayed rim diameter by 50mm (approximately 2 inches). For example the original 15-inch rim may be replaced with a 17-inch rim. Next, the overall diameter of this new alloy wheel and tyre package fitted must not exceed 15 mm. This is achieved by fitting a low profile tyre on the oversize rim. The track of the car, that is the distance from the centre of the tyre tread on one front wheel to the centre of the tyre tread of the other front wheel, must not be increased more than 26mm. The same applies to the wheel track of the rear axle. Then you need to ensure that the rim offset is not more than 13mm from standard. The rim offset is the distance from the wheel hub to the centre line of the rim. Finally, no part of the tyre or rim may foul on the body or suspension or protrude outside the bodywork with the wheels in a straight ahead position. The rim must have its diameter, width, offset and manufacturer ID marked on it. But beware of some poor quality, imported rims as they may not carry these markings!

Car Batteries

Q.Will any battery fit my car?

No, different cars require different size batteries. Purchasing from an RAA patrol ensures your car is fitted with the correct size.

Q.Can the RAA fit my car with a new battery at the roadside?

Yes, all RAA patrols in the metropolitan area and many contractors in country regions are able to fit the RAA Battery.

Q.How do I dispose of an old car battery?

93% of old car batteries can be recycled. To safely dispose of your battery return it to the place of purchase. If you have a battery fitted by an RAA patrol have them take it away for safe disposal.

Timing Belts Explained

Q.What is a timing belt or cam belt?

My repairer has recommended that my timing belt (or cam belt) is due for replacement.

In more ways than one, a question of timing... There’s nothing quite like the ‘clatter-bang-crash’ sound of pistons and valves arguing with each other when they have had a close encounter of the 1st kind! This is soon followed by the imagery of $$$ symbols running through your mind as the vehicle grinds to a halt. Total exasperation follows when the worst fears are realised and confirmed by the RAA Patrolman that the timing belt (or cam belt) has broken. Let’s get an understanding of what the timing belt actually does. The belt is located at the front of the engine and is driven by the crankshaft, which in turn drives the cam shaft, usually in a clockwise direction. On a front wheel drive vehicle, the belt will be facing the side of the engine bay, where access for replacement may be tight. The belt will be completely covered up, making assessment of condition impossible without some dismantling of covers, pulleys and ancillary belts. The crankshaft and the camshaft need to rotate in unison at precisely the right time to allow the induction of the air and fuel mixture, compression of the mixture, combustion of the mixture and finally, exhausting the burnt mixture. The crankshaft is responsible for the pistons and their up and down movement, the camshaft is responsible for the valves opening and closing, allowing the engine to “breath”. If the timing of these components is not correct, it can allow the moving parts to be in the same place at the same time, big problem! So why use a rubber belt for such an important task I hear you say! Rubber belts are quiet in operation and allow a more compact engine design for smaller congested engine bays. Being used extensively through out the 80’s and 90’s, manufacturers have realised the problems that timing belt maintenance, or lack of, is effecting the reliability rating of their products. Due to vast improvements in quality and durability, a lot of manufactures are going back to the good old-fashioned chain drive whereby there is no replacement interval or maintenance required. This equates to chain drive engines having significantly reduced servicing costs. The manufacturer of the vehicle specifies a replacement time for the belt because “prevention is better than the cure”. A very common replacement interval is 100,000k or 5 years, which ever occurs first, but here in lies the problem. The vehicle maybe 10 years old but may have an unusually low kilometre reading, say 75,000k for example. The owner of the vehicle assumes that because it has only done 75,000k the belt must still be ok. It must be remembered that the timing belt is made of rubber, and like all rubber, there is a shelf life that must be considered. Rubber can age, crack and perish over time, so technically the belt in this vehicle is way overdue for replacement, hence, in more ways than one, “a question of timing”.

It is also very important to check to see if the manufacturer has changed or brought forward the replacement interval for the timing belt. For example, some Alfa Romeo models were originally specified for timing belt replacement at 120,000k, this has been revised to 60,000k or 3 years. Another good example is the Holden Astra whereby the belt replacement was changed to 60,000k instead of 120,000k as originally specified. Holden only notified it’s customers visiting their dealer network so it is quite possible that there are many owners out there unaware of the changes in specification. For any vehicle fitted with a timing belt it is good practice to make yourself fully aware of the current specifications for your particular model. If you are having your timing belt replaced you may receive a call from your repairer suggesting other components such as idler pulleys, tentioners, water pump, crankshaft and camshaft seals, ancillary drive belts etc. require further scrutiny or replacement. These are very good recommendations as it will be the opportune time to look at these things whilst this area of the engine is dismantled. After the job is done, it’s a good idea to keep all of the paper work. It will provide good proof and service history should you wish to sell the vehicle at some point in time. More often than not, your potential buyers will ask the question “have you changed the timing belt?” You will then be in the best position to answer their “question of timing”.

Cruise Control

Q.Should I use my cruise control in the wet weather?

Aquaplaning or Hydroplaning

Driving in wet conditions can be more hazardous than normal, dry conditions as the wet conditions affect the tyre's ability to grip the road surface. In order to maximise the grip available to the tyres; water is dispersed via the tyre’s grooves. At higher speed the tyre (particularly if worn) may fail to disperse the water, allowing the tyre to ride on a plane of water and lose contact with the road surface. This is commonly referred to as aquaplaning or hydroplaning. Cruise Control Operation

Cruise control is a device used to keep the speed of the vehicle constant. The speed of the wheels is constantly being measured and fed into a cruise control system that regulates the engine's output. Under a condition where the driving wheels have broken traction, such as an aquaplane situation, the sensor would measure an increase in wheel speed. The cruise control system would then reduce the amount of throttle to maintain the set speed. In addition, cruise control systems are deactivated upon application of the brake pedal, which are usually deployed in emergency situations. Safe use of Cruise Control

The safest way to operate a vehicle is to ensure that under all driving conditions you can control the vehicle (brake, corner and accelerate) in a safe manner. As the "Cruise" control title infers it is a device that should be used under steady driving situations. Cruise control when deployed will attempt to keep the car at a constant speed set by the driver. Hence if it has been set to 100 km/h speed, the car will automatically enter a corner at 100 km/h. If this is an inappropriate speed for the corner the subsequent braking to reduce speed will, while cornering, affect the balance of the vehicle which may in turn induce instability in the vehicle. This will affect the vehicle handling and if not correctly compensated for by the driver, can in a worst case, result in a loss of control of the vehicle. Wet roads significantly affect the grip of the tyre and this in turn can make corrective actions by the driver much more difficult to judge. Accordingly the driver should assess the conditions of the road and adjust vehicle speed to a safe speed suitable for the road. Reference should be made to the vehicle owner's manual to better understand safe operation of its cruise control. One manual referred to suggested cruise control should not be used in "heavy traffic driving, city driving, winding, slippery or unsealed roads".

Car Security

Q.In my street there have been cars tampered with or stolen. What can I do to protect my car?

The first thing is to keep your vehicle off the street and inside a locked garage as often as possible. For Police tips on detering thieves click here.

The next level of protection will depend upon the amount of money you are prepared to spend. Sophisticated alarm systems with personal alarms can run into the thousands of dollars, while a basic steering lock can be as little as $40. Most cars can be protected from being driven away with an engine immobiliser. Look for an immobiliser that has passed the requirements of the Australian Standards. It should disable at least 2 of the vehicle’s 3 essential starting systems: fuel, ignition or starter motor. These units will not stop thieves from entering your car to steal valuable items but will make it harder for the thieves to drive your car away. A good immobiliser can be purchased for less than $200. If you want to stop people from entering your car then you should consider an alarm, a basic alarm can be less than $400 installed. An attempt to break into the car will activate a siren. But you will need to be able to hear the alarm and respond yourself because people have become complacent about alarms screaming and may not take notice. Some alarms have sirens inside the car that make it very uncomfortable for a thief to stay in the car while its ear piercing noise is sounding continuously. You should still consider the use of a steering lock, as it will complement any other system being used.

Q.What is the difference between an immobiliser and an alarm?

An alarm incorporates an immobiliser as well as a warning device that sets off a siren if the armed vehicle is tampered with.

Q.How does an immobiliser protect my car?

An immobilser isolates two of the three essential starting systems; fuel, ignition or starter motor. This prevents the car from being started.

Q.My car currently doesn't have an immobiliser, can it be fitted with one?

Yes. If the vehicle is not fitted with an immobiliser as standard the RAA can fit one for you.

Q.What is the cheapest way to deter car thieves?

The cheapest form of vehicle security is the RAA Steering Wheel Lock (Sperling Prolock). This device removes the ability to steer the vehicle. Click here to view

RAA Approved Repairers

Q.If I am an RAA member and use an Approved Repairer will I receive a discount?

RAA Members do not receive a discount at Approved Repairers simply for being a member. However, some repairers offer discounts for pensioners and have specials that they advertise from time to time in the media. Ask the repairer if a discount is applicable to your repairs or circumstances prior to commencement of the repair.

Q.Why should I use an Approved Repairer?

Over the past 24 years RAA Approved Repairers have grown to be a highly respected and integral part of the automotive industry in South Australia. They are respected by the motoring public for their trustworthiness, professionalism, reliability and their modern and progressive attitude towards the automotive industry in general. On completion of repairs the approved repairer will guarantee the effectiveness of the work for a minimum of three (3) months or 5,000 kilometres, which ever comes first.

Q.Are there Approved Repairers in country areas?

Yes, there are a number of Approved Repairers in regional centres. To find an Approved Repairer near you search here.

Q.How do I identify an Approved Repairer?

Approved Repairers are most easily recognised by the large, yellow Approved Repairer sign located on the outside of their business. The sign also displays what type of repairer the business is - mechanical, crash or specialist.

Q.How do I become an Approved Repairer?

If you are interested in becoming an Approved Repairer send a letter expressing your interest and providing business details to the Technical Liasion Manager, 101 Richmond Road, Mile End, SA 5031.

Holiday Driving Tips

Q.How can I best prepare for a driving holiday?

Pre holiday check video
For a smooth start to your holidays, it pays to be prepared. Although you may be looking forward to long days by the beach or in the countryside, a few minutes preparing both yourself and your car for the journey will save time, money and inconvenience further down the track. If you’re looking for destination ideas, or if you know where you want to go, first stop should be your local RAA Branch or this website. You can pick up ideas on where to go, get your maps, travel books and accessories, make accommodation bookings and bone up on local information so you’re armed with everything you need before you set out. Next, make sure your car is up to the journey ahead. The RAA recommends that you get your car thoroughly serviced – especially if you are setting off on your first long journey in a while. If that’s not possible a few simple checks will ensure that you have taken care of the things most likely to go wrong. Check your tyres. They are the only contact you have with the road and if there isn’t sufficient tread (minimum of 2mm) change them. Its not only illegal to have bald tyres, it could nullify any insurance claim you make due to an accident, and most importantly, it’s downright dangerous. Make sure windscreen wipers are operating and that the blades haven’t split or perished. Check the reservoir bottle has a sufficient fluid level. Check that all lights are working – including indicators - and take some spare bulbs. Check the coolant level in both the radiator and expansion tank. Inspect hoses for soft spots, bulges, cracks and loose clamps. Check drive belts for correct tension and for cracks or excessive wear in drive pulleys. Inspect the radiator and water pump for stains or leaks. Make sure your indicator gauges are working properly, and finally, make sure you have enough petrol. It only takes a few minutes to do these checks, but it does mean that you can set off on holiday with peace of mind. If you are off on a family holiday, a little preparation inside the car won’t go amiss. If you have children, make sure everyone has paid a visit to the toilet before setting off. Take some games to occupy the little ones, some snacks and drinks, and some wet wipes or a damp flannel for freshening up. Set a realistic travel time and use your map to schedule stops for coffee, stretching your legs and sharing the driving. Make the journey and the breaks part of the holiday so that you arrive fresh and in good humour – not stressed out from a long trip. If you are venturing far, it may pay to upgrade your RAA membership to RAA Premium, which will take care of towing, transport and accommodation if your car breaks down more than 100km from home, as well as giving you year round city benefits like unlimited call-outs. And when you have done all of your preparations, remember the most important thing – relax, you’re on holiday!